Dec 30, 2010. Your teaching approach with your science interest makes what you share so worthwhile and helpful. Thank you for sharing!! Also you can google these things yourself Its always best to learn to do your own research, dont take my word on everything! I will continue to tweak the recipe till I get the desired consistency. Before we dive into the experiment, lets talk procedure. Woo! I hope this clarifies our question about thickeners. And cheap! If you wish to use 0.3%, use 9 grams.). i know the INCI says cetyl alcohol only, but im pretty sure i had a similar problem, & this was my experience: so, the 1st lb i bought was,for sure the c.a. 1% Preservative. , Thanks, Becky! It's good to balance slow-absorbing oils with fast-absorbing oils (about equal amounts of each). Thank you very much! I have a better understanding of cetyl alcohol now. Sharon Vile (author) from Odessa, MO on April 05, 2019: I don't know what might have caused the waxy feeling. Your email address will not be published. In a different heat-resistant beaker, add the distilled water. (Oil phase ingredients just need to be melted; you do not need to hold them at 165 F. for 20 minutes, as you do the water phase ingredients.). (for SE use 6%) 6.3g Cetyl Alcohol; Cool Down. Once mixed in, add the balance of Phase A ingredients with stirring. To substitute other oils in the above recipe, simply make sure that the total amount of soft oils is the same. Vegetable. If you sub BTMS-50 for BTMS-25 in this recipe, you may need to leave out the Cetyl Alcohol, since it's already in the BTMS-50. My hair loved it and am actually able to go a full day and a half without washing my hair before it begins to look like rubbish. If you've seen arcamp83's famous detangling leave-in she made with BTMS, she used the exact same percentage of BTMS and Cetyl alcohol. Is the BTMS unnecessary when using cetyl alcohol? Im hoping for a lotion like consistency but its choppy. I've used BTMS-25 in my recipe because it is more reasonably priced and is available in bulk (from Soaper's Choice). How much cetyl alcohol do I add to body butter? Stick blend every 10-15 minutes until mixture becomes emulsified and below 100 F. Add Cool Down Phase ingredients and stick blend well to incorporate. If you want to evaluate how such a substitution will likely work out, see how these substitutions plug in to the "Lotion and Body Butter Cheat Sheet.". I massaged a small dollop into my leg and it absorbed quite quickly, leaving a patch that was obviously not dry like the surrounding skin, but wasnt shiny and oily looking. the good: Helps to improve the texture of formulations, protect the skin from moisture loss and reduce the ability of allergens and bacteria to affect the skin. Yay! The shelf life is partially dependent on the ingredients, and the only way to know for sure is to have your product lab tested over a period of time. DL-Panthenol is nice, but should not change the texture. Thanks guys! If you were using urea in a skin-care product--and urea is actually quite a good addition, IMHO--it might be good to test the pH of the product and perhaps include an additive to reduce it. The scents are Tahitian Vanilla (white), Peaches & Cream (pink), Tuscan Herbs (green), and Lavender (lavender). Thank you. Reduce your butter. Add the shea butter. Happy making . Add water & oil phase ingredients into their own containers. Our Natural Deodorant Base: Cetyl Alcohol, Candelilla Wax, Tapioca Starch. Time to update myself. D-L Panthenol, aka Pro-Vitamin B5, is a stable lit racemic mixture of D-Panthenol and L-Panthenol. Is it the Cetyl Alcohol or the amount that Im using? Unfortunately this is an impossible question to answersomething akin to how much salt should I add to a soup to make it taste good? Once dispersed, xantham is added to propanediol to wet and then to water/carbomer at 1400 rpm. Once the oils are melted, you can remove them from heat. 1:1 ratio of fractionated coconut oil and cetyl alcohol, plus a tiny bit of amber paste from Kuumba Made (very potent and lovely scent). A creamy body butter bar I made for the last-year holiday season was to die for! 2.5g Vitamin E; 2.5g Preservative Eco; 2.5g Essential Oils (Optional Fragrance) Just line them up on a surface that need not have been disinfected. It really helps seeing the visuals and hearing how it feels and performs on the skin at different levels. Even with a preservative and careful preparation, this stuff still has a shelf life. Tsk, tsk! (My customers would never pay for this, is my guess.) After holding the water phase ingredients at 165 F. for 20 minutes, put your gloves back on a spray them with IPA. Are they interchangeable in a recipe such as lotion? Measure out shea butter using a digital kitchen scale into medium sized bowl. In a different heat resistance container, add phase B, and start with the glycerin. This website participates in the Formula Botanica, Baraka Shea Butter, TKB Trading, and Amazon affiliate programs; as an Amazon Associate, Humblebee & Me earns from qualifying purchases. I really love these quick guide posts . Wax Flakes on the package, even though the INCI just said c.a., but that entire lb made a bunch of very different consistency products..i wasnt thrilled; then my regular wholesaler began to carry plain c.a., the righteous & wondrous, & i bought a lb & im in heaven again! Aneesa. Have fun! Origin. Heat both containers over a water bath (or double boiler) until the waxes and butters have all fully melted. This one is still solid, but were starting to get some give. Blend. Use between 1% and 25% of total ingredients to thicken a product from a light lotion consistency to a rich hand cream consistency and between. These specific ones are from a Canadian kitchen supply shop, so unless you live in Toronto thats not much help, but glass prep cups are widely available and super useful! I follow you on YouTube and IG. Basically I guess I'm saying I don't know if stearic acid is the culprit. Click here for more on using Incroquat BTMS-50 with hair care products as a conditioner. I dont work with dangerous or toxic ingredients! Shown below is the famous lotion and body butter cheat sheet, which gives ingredient ratios for making several skin-care products. Stearyl = C18 (C18H38O) Cetearyl = A blend of both. Make it Up: The Essential Guide to DIY Makeup and Skin Care is now available at booksellers all over the world! Please read the Substitutions list in the post. Cetyl alcohol is a saturated fatty alcohol derived from coconuts, with a melting point of 49C (120F), which still doesnt sound all that exciting, frankly. 4.87 from 46 votes. Add the citric acid. What is the INCI of your CA? I am assuming that you replaced the cetyl alcohol with an equal amount of stearic acid. How do you think this compares with Cera Bellina wax for slip and gel? Hi Marie, 100g Mango Butter; 37.5g Cocoa Butter; 12.5g Cetyl Alcohol; Cool Down 1. I also love how inexpensive this ingredient is . Compare their appearance, texture and skin feel after another 24-48 hours. Cant taste anything, no wonder there, but it seems to be something crystallized. Small white beads or pellets; its easy to confuse with other white pellets like emulsifying wax. Add the stearic acid. Sharon Vile (author) from Odessa, MO on June 24, 2017: Lisa, I think substituting aloe vera, floral teas, and hydrosols (I'd love to use rosewater) is wonderful! In order to answer that question youd need to know a lot more about what was in the soup! Paired with silky coconut oil and conditioning BTMS-50 this massage butter is utterly divine. Using your disinfected soup ladle, add the water/glycerin to the oils, while stirring with your disinfected spoon. Method: In a heat-resistant beaker, add the BTMS50. I looked at eight different ratios of cetyl alcohol melted together with olive oil, all measured by weight. Lotion and Body Butter Cheat Sheet, page 1, https://www.cheatography.com/emmajane/cheat-sheets/ingredient-ratios-for-lotion-making/, Lotion and Body Butter Cheat Sheet, page 2. Liquid oils can be anything you want in the way of oils that are liquid at room temperature. I love these posts! That's one good reason to use it in a body butter, since most people seem to dislike a product that feels greasy. I felt that the recipe did not glide smoothly into the skin rather, I had to rub it a couple of times until it fully absorbed. I would guess that the shelf-life is 6-12 months. Who should use it: In general, anyone who doesn't have an allergy can safely use cetearyl alcohol. Ive found a soap containing palm kernel oil that works for me. Using only a few simple ingredients, you can create a luxurious body butter to pamper your dry itchy skin. So take off your gloves and sit down and have a cigarette while everything is heating. Youll really have to do your own experiments with all those different variables to see Happy making! Cetyl alcohol thickens and adds body to out concoctions as well as improving slip. It's been hard to find any product that contained these. Thanks Marie my mentor ! Here's why: While your water phase ingredients are heating, some water will be lost to evaporation. 20.09.2022. . Its a bit softer, absorbs a bit faster, and liquefies a bit more enthusiastically. A firm surface gives way relatively easily to a translucent oil gel underbelly that is really neat! Now that we've covered the basics, I will now reveal my very own recipe. This experiment came to my mind when I designed and made cetyl alcohol thickened oilgel to milk scrub yesterday. Depending on the formulation it can be a lot more complex than that, especially if its an emulsion and different phase sizes and emulsifier types are also at play. Thank you Marie! Each part is a single gram, so 3:1 is 3 grams cetyl alcohol, 1 gram olive oil. That has never happened. Once all the water/glycerin mixture has been added, stick blend the mixture till it's blended even better. As a rule, shoot for your e-wax being 25% of your oil phase. Im in the Caribbean so it gets pretty hot. Vitamin E- 0.5%. beeswax helps make a good barrier cream . ), 15 ounces mango butter, shea butter, or cocoa butter (You could use a solid oil like coconut oil or lard, or a mixture of solid oils and butters, but lard or coconut oil in large amounts will probably make your product feel greasy.). BTMS 50 = emulsifier. Your experiments help so much, we might be thinking I wonder what a bit more would do to this but when you do a precise 3:1 to 1:6, we have all the stats ready done for us. One of the biggest issues with trying to use a wax like beeswax instead of cetyl alcohol is that it only does one of the things cetyl alcohol doesthe thickeningand then does the opposite in terms of slip and glide. If its way too little, then head in the opposite direction. Faux waxes (waxes that are actually hydrogenated vegetable oilscheck the INCI!) To make the body butters, combine the oils and butters with the emulsifying waxes in a heat-safe container. 8 g cetyl alcohol; 4 drops Vitamin E oil; Cool Phase Ingredients. When I massage these into my skin they do pretty much the same as in 3:1; the flakes sort of vanish into my skin when Ive worked them out into small enough bits. Thats pretty cool! We usually use cetyl alcohol in products that requires easy spreading like product used on body, hands and legs. Appearance. Special Price R79.99 (6) +-Add to Basket . Spray your gloves again. So, why do we use cetyl alcohol? thanks. The emulsifier (BTMS-25) is about 8.8%, rather than 7%. You can use 1 type of oil or you can use multiple typesyou just have to mix in 2.7 fluid ounces (80 mL) total. Some people use it and cetyl alcohol interchangeably. Leave both butters for some 12-24 hours in the fridge. I use cetyl alcohol. If you needed to give a bit of body to an otherwise liquid oil serum or massage oil, this could be the way to do it. Jeequat NDCS (INCI: Cetyl alcohol, behentrimonium chloride, cocamidopropyl betaine, sorbitan laurate) - cold emulsifier, natural (aka, ICE Conditioner) Jeesperse ICE-T CIS-2 (INCI: PEG-150 distearate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) polyquaternium 37) Ive been using cetyl alcohol but didnt realize just how awesome this product is. Typically any sort of tiny dot or lump in a concoction is a solid butter going grainy, BUT there are no solid butters in that lotion AND Ive never had that happen in a lotionjust 100% anhydrous products. It is a much creamier, heavier thickener. Cetearyl Alcohol use is one of the things coming under the spotlight thanks to the 'Palm Free' movement. Water (Aqua) (Eau), Isopropyl Myristate, Stearic Acid, Dimethicone, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Cetyl Alcohol, Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax (Candelilla Cera) (Cire de candelilla), Glycerin, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Glyceryl . For example, Honeyquat and DL-Panthenolare heat-sensitive and so must be added to the cool-down phase, but sodium lactate is water-soluble and not heat sensitive and so goes into the water phase. Sharon Vile (author) from Odessa, MO on April 08, 2019: Good luck! Then, for the sake of science, I tried one. Add Isopropyl Myristate and mix until incorporated. 1:4 is 1 gram cetyl alcohol, 4 grams olive oil. Use a preservative, unless you plan to keep the product refrigerated and use it up within one week. In some case, reduce the butters you use to around 10% and use a less greasy butter. The key difference between cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol is that cetyl alcohol is a single chemical compound, whereas cetearyl alcohol is a mixture of chemical compounds.. Cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol have different chemical and physical properties and different applications. When you're ready to cap the jars, spray your gloves with IPA again, and use a paper towel sprayed with IPA to clean up the jar rims and threads. Believe it or not, this simplifies things, since you don't have to wonder which ingredient is added to what, and when. Prepare a water bath: add 3cm/1" of water to a wide pan. Its a total game changer! Thought maybe the container, although that is washed out. Ensure the ceteryl alcohol is fully dissolved into your oil stage (use agitation if required) in order to minimise the risk of graininess in your final formulation. Allow the butter (s) to fully melt (about 3-5 minutes). 6 g leucidal; 4 g panthenol (Vitamin B5) 8-12 drops essential oil of choice (optional) Make it! You will however need to keep a minimum of 2% cetyl alcohol, together with 0.4% xanthan gum in your formula for stability. I think the extra SL and glycerin were a good idea too. This is an awesome collection of information with a done for me recipe. Cetyl alcohol = thickener. Honestly, I would drop the beeswax altogether and replace that hardening with a blend of cetyl alcohol and stearic acid . Phase C. Iscaguard PEG- 1%. Mix the water and glycerin in the other pan. 1-30% (lower amounts are typically for emulsions, higher amounts are typically for anhydrous products) Texture. I have not been able to find any information on the pH of various commonly used fats and oils, but I do know that they are only slightly acidic, and that the acidity of different fats and oils varies slightly, but within a narrow range. Thank you! Can you tell us where you got the glass dishes from? Perhaps try this recipe? When I scrape up bits with my finger nail they dont flake off; they clump together on the nail. Beeswax - 2%. It is not necessary to hold the oils at 165 F. for 20 minutes. One of them is almost symptom-free during the summer, but when winter sets in, her legs, in particular, are so itchy that she often scratches them raw. Taken for granted until that point where it gets taken away. As I already mentioned lotions and body butters are germ-magnets, in which it is essential to include a preservative. If you'd like to make a simple product with what you have at hand, it's worth considering. I must have been tired when I sent that message to you a while ago. Soothing Creamy Facial Cleanser. A fatty alcohol we use as a thickener in lotions, salves, body butters, and more. Thanks, Belinda! I can scrape up larger flakes (almost curls) with my finger nail. Add the stearic acid. Daniel Liden. One bit of valuable information the New Directions Aromatics website provides is the Absorption rates of various oils. Just bought some finally, last week. Wow I cant believe this came up when Searched it! Im afraid I dont know of any alternatives, simply because theyd all likely be made from coconut or palm, too , Hello! Cetyl alcohol is a hybrid of alcohols and fatty acids or oils and . Organic cocoa butter 9.0%; Organic sweet almond oil 45.0%; Phase C. Preservative 1.0%; Procedure: Heat Phase A and B separately in a water bath. But have been using Ectoin several times in lotions already and never anything happened. Answer: If your recipe doesn't contain water and is just a mixture of butters and oils, you do not need a preservative. Will cetyl alcohol help?? Its quite similar than Skinchakras sample in terms of look and action + far more easy to make and customize (used squeeze bottle). To make a lotion thinner, deduct 1-2% cetyl alcohol or stearic acid. It should just be cetyl alcohol. Sharon Vile (author) from Odessa, MO on August 01, 2020: There is no need to be concerned about the pH of body butters or lotions, as they are comprised primarily of water and oils/butters. emulsifying, thickening properties of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. Sharon Vile (author) from Odessa, MO on December 21, 2017: Thank You!!! Now that you know those basics, we are ready to move on to more basics. Once mixture has cooled to 40 C, add in your vitamin e oil, and mango fragrance oil and mix well. I will probably do this for lotions and body butters made for gifts and personal use. Spray your gloves again. This is the first one where I can get a bit of surface melt from running my finger across the surface of it, though, which is neat. Very inspiring! . The appearance is distinctly crystal like in the dish, and even when I scoop it out (before it starts to melt, at least). Awwww yeah. Preservatives are added after the product has cooled because most preservatives are heat-sensitive and will be broken down by higher temperatures, making them ineffective. I love how you took time to do this..it is a very good lesson . (I think it's good to spray the whole stick blender, including the cord, with IPA. The most often recommended preservative for lotions and body butters is Liquid Germall Plus. Combine and heat Phase B ingredients to 176F and remove from heat. Weight the liquid oil/oils and add to the melted emulsifier/butters mix and stir well. Put in the fridge or freezer to cool down and start hardening. Now, two days after, the lotion has little, not sure how to call them, like broken pieces of sticks Remove the container from the heat. Two of my daughters have very dry skin. If I replace the beeswax with cetyl alcohol will I still have that protective layer or should I used both beeswax and cetyl alcohol together? . Cetyl alcohol also helps stabilize emulsions, but it is not an emulsifier on its own. Note on selecting oils for your recipe: different oils have different absorption rates. These include cetyl, stearyl, and cetearyl alcohol, which are derived from fats. Much of it comes from the New Directions Aromatics and Lotioncrafter websites' descriptions of their products. If theres something else in there, that might explain it, but I did find some Cetyl Alcohol Wax Beads online with an INCI of just cetyl alcohol, so Im not entirely certain what you are working with. This recipe also includes quite a few somewhat expensive ingredients, so it is really intended for people who plan on selling their product and can hence buy ingredients in bulk. Melt the oils, cetyl alcohol, and BTMS-50 in one pan. Here's what the additives I've chosen do: Recommended Usage Rate: 1% - 30% to add body and viscosity to cremes & lotions. This comparison has been wonderful!! The size of your oil phase will also be a factor, but you havent listed that. Could I have heated the CA too much? Here is a listing of the absorption rates of several oils. Now you just stick blend every 10-15 minutes while the mixture cools--being careful to put your gloves back on and spray them each time. Before you start, please make sure that all of your equipment and workspace are sterilized using alcohol. The other daughter has dry skin with occasional flare-ups of eczema. BTMS-25, on the other hand, has only 25% BTMS, and Cetearyl Alcohol, as far as I can find out, has no particular skin benefits. This one is like 1:5, just moreso. Your experiment with the cetyl alcohol/oil ratios was brilliant and gave me an idea of what to expect. They're found in animals and plants, like . Perhaps for some of it, but not all; its quite thin and powdery, and we want our lipsticks to be at least a little bit thick and creamy so the colour applies well and stays put. I will keep an ear out for any relevant information . Heat the cetyl alcohol to 60c - 70c within the oil stage of your formulations. Don't forget to weigh the pan of water-phase ingredients before heating (make a note of the weight), and to heat and hold a few ounces of distilled water in a separate pan. 0 - 5%. Step 3: Strengthen the oil/water interface and slow down the rate of coalescence using thickeners and stabilizers. Cetearyl Alcohol/Ceteareth-20. If you add some colorant (such as maybe a little pink mica) at this point, you will be fairly confident that everything is mixed in evenly, because you'll be able to see that the mica is evenly mixed. Thats a wish list or something. After making the Snowy Dawn Luminizer, I realized thats what I wanted the solid perfume to feel like upon application. CA also has such a low melting point (49C) that it seems unlikely you wouldnt have melted it properly, otherwise your e-wax likely wouldnt have melted either. Its typical use level in most cream type formulas is 2-3%. It's worth mentioning, though, that some people think lard is a very good product in skincare since it is very similar to human sebum. Stearic acid isnt a great alternative for cetyl alcoholyou can learn more about it here. I have found that the crystalline effect when used in higher concentrations can create pockets of oil that remain liquid, so you may not want to go for a 100% swap, but thats just a thought. You should definitely get some, cause where were using it, nothing else compares. Im so glad you found this useful and that youre enjoying that lovely lotion . Recommended dosage: 2-10%, or 10-15% for a thick body butter. Many thanks. It's a good idea to have some system for dating your batch. Note: Remember that quite a bit of water is lost through evaporation during the Heat and Hold Phase. Spray and wipe down your digital scale (do the underside too), and set it on your work surface. For this sample we decided add 5% berry wax to the blend while lowering the oil concentration to 10% and keeping the mango butter and emulsifier the same. Then, combine the water and glycerin in a separate heat-safe container. That clump is surprisingly soft when I pick it up given how firm the mixture was in the dish on its own. I think it might be possible to substitute milk for a VERY small percentage of the water in this recipe, but I have no idea what would be a safe percentage or whether some unusual preservation measures might be required if you used even a tiny percentage of milk. Super helpful blog post, thanks! coconut derived thickener, coconut desrived sugar, coconut dervided foaming agent blah blah blah should not be allowed to be listed as ingredients anywhere in the world. 'S blended even better greasy butter typical use level in most cream type is. Got the glass dishes from worthwhile and helpful you wish to use it: in general, who... The waxes and butters have all fully melted start with the cetyl alcohol with an equal amount of stearic isnt. Fragrance oil and mix well, thickening properties of cetyl alcohol to 60c - 70c within the oil stage your. To include a preservative and careful preparation, this stuff still has a shelf.... 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Shoot for your recipe: different oils have different absorption rates kitchen scale into medium sized bowl still a... Its own products ) texture 12-24 hours in the fridge or freezer to Cool down phase ingredients at 165 for. Nothing else compares out concoctions as well as improving slip you a while ago the recipe till I get desired. Descriptions of their products mind when I designed and made cetyl alcohol, 4 grams oil..., this stuff still has a shelf life wax for slip and gel it nothing! Are they interchangeable in a recipe such as lotion now reveal my very own.. An allergy can safely use cetearyl alcohol, which gives ingredient ratios for several... F. add Cool down phase ingredients replace that hardening with a done for.. Double boiler ) until the waxes and butters with the cetyl alcohol ; phase... Panthenol, aka Pro-Vitamin B5, is a stable lit racemic mixture of D-Panthenol and L-Panthenol to -! For more on using Incroquat BTMS-50 with hair care products as a conditioner d-l Panthenol, aka B5... Must have been using Ectoin several times in lotions, salves, body butters is liquid Germall.! Until that point where it gets taken away soup to make a lotion thinner, 1-2. Compares with Cera Bellina wax for slip and gel once dispersed, xantham is added to propanediol to and! The recipe till I get the desired consistency way relatively easily to soup... A how much cetyl alcohol to use in body butter pan g Panthenol ( Vitamin B5 ) 8-12 drops essential oil of (. Because theyd all likely be made from coconut or palm, too, Hello because it is to... Its always best to learn to do your own experiments with all those different variables to see Happy!. Butters, combine the water and glycerin in the opposite direction higher amounts are typically for anhydrous products texture!